R and I went to Cornwall for the second time in June 2019. We stayed in a small seaside town called Looe, which we chose from a list of nice places to stay for two reasons: first, it has a railway station, and second, the name sounds like a toilet. This is what being an adult is all about.

We stayed in a small but nice flat in what would once have been a fisherman’s house, very near the beach and the pier, arriving on Saturday afternoon.


We went to the (tiny but entertaining) town museum and had a look around the town.

Archway across the Looe River.
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Looe beach.
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East past the end of the sea wall on the nice new steps.
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We did an official town walk from a leaflet.

Font lid in St Nicholas’s Church.
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Houses, West Looe.
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The bridge was repaired in 1689, but that didn’t last; it’s been demolished. (There’s a new one.)
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Fish market.
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Looe pier is called the Banjo Pier, because it has a circular end after a long straight bit. The shape is approximately nothing like a banjo (it would be slightly more accurate to call it the lollipop pier).

Beacon on the pier.
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R kitted up in her North Face for the British summer.
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On Tuesday we took a short boat ride to Looe Island, which is also called St George’s Island - at least, that was the plan. R decided at the last minute that she might get sick on the boat, so she stayed in the flat abusing somebody else’s Netflix account while I went on my own.

It was a beautiful day and the sea was impressively flat.
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The island is now owned by the Cornwall Wildlife Trust as a reserve. A few rangers live out there, and one of them greeted us and gave us an introduction to the island. She handed out a laminated set of detailed directions for a short circuit of the island, which we could take at our own pace.

This is what a generator room looks like when you’re a wildlife trust.
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Trees with the sea and coast behind.
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Outdoor plumbing.
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Jetty (not used for our boat, we landed on the beach) and clear water.
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Rocks and seagulls.
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More rocks and more seagulls.
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Rocks, small plants, and the sea.
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Quite a lot of sea.
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Sea with grass, and some interesting cloud.
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If you are in the area when they’re running trips, I definitely recommend visiting the island, especially if it’s a nice day and even if like me you aren’t particularly interested in wildlife.

After I got back, we went to see the exhibition at the Sardine Factory, which probably used to be a sardine factory but has now been redeveloped. It was only somewhat interesting but there is a point where you can take photos standing in a giant sardine tin, which has to be a plus.

Landing stage by the river.
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Nelson the one-eyed seal lived near Looe for 25 years; after he died they put up a statue.
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Looking across Looe River.
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An arrow by the river.
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Window on Higher Chapel Street.
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We spent Wednesday visiting the Eden Project, travelling by train and then an astonishingly expensive bus. The attraction itself is a bit like a modern version of the greenhouses at Kew Gardens, except with giant domes. It’s fairly interesting and there’s a lot to see.

Outdoors, they were doing sound checks for some band due to play that evening, which was a bit incongruous. Not sure of the band. Oasis? Definitely maybe.

View up at dome roof with flowers.
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View up at dome roof with grasses.
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Pretty flower.
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In the rainforest dome, you can wait for a tour up to the very top, which involves climbing a lot of stairs on some very high metal platforms. R opted out, which is good because pregnant women (and people with heart conditions, etc etc) aren’t allowed up anyway! I went up there and you do get impressive views. It was exceedingly hot and they closed it, because some temperature limit had been reached, right after my group came down.

Looking down at trees from the top.
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We ended up rushing to catch a bus home and had to skip through their exhibition centre, but we did get to see two huge and entertaining sculptures.

I think this one is supposed to be a seed.
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And this one periodically blows scented smoke rings (because reasons).
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View from Liskeard station, waiting for the Looe train.
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We took a five mile walk along the South West Coast Path to Polperro, which is an extremely picturesque village.

Looking back at Looe Island.
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A tree on the slope.
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Rocks and the path dropping down below.
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An interesting (and extremely windy) rock jutting out toward the sea.
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Small island by the coast.
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Coming in to Talland Bay.
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Talland Bay features two cafés; we stopped at the first one for a rest and an ice cream. I took a short diversion uphill to see the church, which is interesting because it has a mostly-detached tower.

Passageway between church and tower; yellow bucket.
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Inside the church.
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We continued the walk into Polperro.

Hedge arch.
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Entrance to Polperro Harbour.
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Houses backing onto the river in Polperro.
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We couldn’t stay too long in Polperro, so we visited the model village (not as impressive as others we’ve seen), but not the museum. Afterwards, an enormous queue of people including us somehow managed to fit onto the late double-decker bus back to Looe.

Looe fish market again.
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After we got back to the flat, R rested and I took a short walk on my own.

Banjo Pier, with waves contributing to a rather nice puddle.
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Pier and waves.
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Self-portrait with railings and rocks.
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I went out again after dark, trying to spot the Eddystone Lighthouse. I believe I did find the light (I have a photo to prove it but I haven’t posted that here because, you know, it's a white dot). It was a fun trip out on quite a wild night, with a strong wind and waves occasionally splashing onto the pier.

View back at Looe Beach and East Looe behind.
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Alleyway with steps.
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Pastel bookshop and steep street.
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We took a very short walk the other way on the coast path, as far as the beach at Millendreath.

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Ferns and a whitewashed wall.
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Plaidy Beach. (So-called; I saw no sign of plaid.)
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Steps down and plants growing in the sun.
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Pastel garage and garden.
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Rocks off Millendreath Beach.
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You can walk out on a low jetty.
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After returning to Looe for a cream tea, we strolled back to the flat via the riverside.

Boats moored in Looe River.
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That’s the end of the photos (and our holiday)! Thanks for reading this far.

All images © Samuel Marshall. All rights reserved.